Planting a tree is something most people consider basic knowledge but seeing the variation of practices available on the internet and the high tree mortality rate in the urban forest, where we all live, indicates that few trees are planted with the proper skill to give them a chance for long term survival.

The following tree siting factors need to be considered before selecting a tree:

• Light availability (Seasonal), intensity (slope) and duration (full sun to deep shade, time of day (afternoon vs. morning/evening)
• Water availability, both quantity and quality (slope, bottom site, ridge site)
• Exposure to wind and temperature extremes (slope orientation)
• Soil type, drainage, compaction (bulk density), structure (visible horizons or lack thereof), texture (sand, silt, clay)
• USDA Hardiness Zone (Cincinnati is USDA zone 6)
• Existing vegetation (native plant community vs. non-native plant community)
• Below ground (root competition from other plants, utilities)
• Above ground wires or obstructions

Planting Ball and Burlap Trees:

Precautionary notes: 

• The tree trunk should not be used as a handle
• The wire basket and burlap wrap are for transport only and is intended to be removed when the tree is planted
• Properly matched equipment is needed to successfully plant trees; large trees may need mechanized equipment and rated straps or slings

Planting process:

1. ) Perform remedial pruning on the tree if it is dormant and accessible on its side (See instructions below)
2. ) With the tree in a secure upright position

• Cut the bottom of the wire basket around the circumference
  • Open the top of the root ball wrap to check the position of the root flare
    • Carefully remove excess soil to expose the root flare if needed

3.) Skim turf grass off the planting site at least two times the diameter size of the root ball

• The site can be edged with a spade to define the diameter before removing grass

4.) Measure the vertical height of the root ball and excavate the planting hole to that same depth. Excavate the hole at least two times the width of the root ball.

• Leave the base of the hole undisturbed to prevent settling of the tree.
• Deposit excavated soil around the perimeter of the planting hole leaving an open space for moving the tree into the hole

5.) Move the tree into the excavated hole with the dominant growth side of the tree facing south to west using proper equipment geared to the size and weight of the tree

• Make sure the bottom of the wire basket is free from the root ball

6.) Prop the tree in a true upright position on North-South and East-West pole

7.) Check for alignment of the root flare to the soil grade

• Sloped sites need to be adjusted so the entire root ball is in soil and the root flare is at soil grade

8.) Cut and remove the remaining wire basket after the tree is set in place

• A wider hole makes this task easier 

9.) Cut the burlap vertically, then around the base of the root ball, removing it from the hole

• Leave only the bottom portion of the burlap unless it can be removed with disturbing the root ball

10.) Backfill the tree hole with the excavated soil

• Break up large clods of soil with the shovel
• Do not stomp soil around the tree
• Leave a slightly elevated ridge of soil around the tree to compensate for settling

11.) Guy and stake the tree only if not well anchored (See instructions below)

12.) Irrigate the tree long enough to settle the fill soil

• Adjust any soil settling as needed

13.) Apply finer-textured organic mulch no more than 4” deep

• Do not apply mulch near the root flare

14.) Apply deer protection fencing or barrier to the trunk

15.) Check for supplemental irrigation weekly through moderate weather; more often during dry periods

• Supplemental irrigation should be slow deep watering around the entire root ball

16.) Remove Guying and Stakes when the plant has anchored in the soil

The root flare on this B&B tree was 6” below the root ball soil.  Planting it at the root ball grade would have set the tree 6” below grade eventually killing it

Planting Container Trees

• Plant container trees in cooler weather or away from direct sun
• Ball and Burlap trees lack 90% of their roots; Container plants will tolerate heavy root pruning if needed
• Plant container trees in cooler weather or away from direct sun
  • Ball and Burlap trees lack 90% of their roots; Container plants will tolerate heavy root pruning if needed
• Perform remedial pruning on the tree if it is dormant and on its side (See instructions below)
• Skim turf grass off the planting site at least two times the diameter size of the container root mass
  • The site can be edged with a spade to define the diameter before removing grass
• Prepare planting hole no deeper than the container size and at least two times the diameter of the container root mass
• Remove the plant from the container and inspect the roots
  • Locate the root flare to make sure it is visible at surface grade
  • Flare the circling roots radially if they are flexible 
  • Cut the circling roots where they begin to turn if they are not flexible
  • Loosen finely textured roots by shaking them
• Remove as much of the nursery soil mix as possible and use it for a top dressing after the plant is installed
• Orient the dominant growth side of the plant to the west and south if it is detectable
• Be sure the root flare is set at surrounding soil grade
• Back fill with the excavated soil breaking any large clods with the shovel
  • Do not stomp soil around the tree
  • Leave a slightly elevated ridge of soil around the tree to compensate for settling
  • Top dress around the hole with any leftover nursery mix
• Guy and stake the tree only if not well anchored (See instructions below)
• Irrigate the tree long enough to settle the fill soil and adjust grade as needed
• Apply finer textured organic mulch no more than 4” deep
  • Do not apply mulch near the root flare
• Check for supplemental irrigation weekly through moderate weather; more often during dry periods
• Apply deer protection fencing or barrier to the trunk
• Remove Guying and Stakes when the plant has anchored in the soil

Pruning container girdling roots

An example of girdling container root pruned

Properly finished tree with root flare and mulch

A container tree ready to plant after root pruning and loosening attached nursery soil

Planting Bare Root Trees

• High tree mortality results with bare root planted trees because of soil desiccation 
• Prune injured root and stem tissue off the tree
• Soak the roots overnight
• Skim any turf grass off the planting site
• Excavate the planting site to the depth of the roots, chopping the soil as finely as possible
• Position the tree to the soil grade and back fill
  • This is best accomplished with someone holding the tree in place
  • Do not stomp soil around the tree
  • Leave a slightly elevated ridge of soil around the tree to compensate for settling
• Guy and stake the tree (See instructions below)
• Irrigate the tree and adjust any settling of soil
• Apply fine-textured organic mulch no more than 4” deep and avoiding contact with the tree
• Check for supplemental irrigation several times weekly through moderate weather; more often during dry periods
  • Apply slow, deep even amounts of water keeping soil moister but not saturated
• Apply deer protection fencing or barrier to the trunk
• Remove Guying and Stakes when the plant has anchored in the soil

Guying and Staking Trees

• Stakes should anchor the tree; set them firmly in the ground
• Use two or three stakes depending on the amount of anchoring needed
• Guy the tree as low as possible to promote lignification (wood development) on the leader that results from wind resistance
• Attach guying with buffered attachments to avoid girdling
• Trees are usually anchored sufficiently after one growing season and should be removed to prevent girdling

Proper Pruning of Young Trees

• It is better to make many smaller pruning cuts than fewer larger cuts

• All pruning cuts should be done on the branch collar

Pruning cuts 1 and 2 alleviate the weight of the branch and prevent a tear injury that would likely result otherwise. 

• If the branch collar is not defined, the pruning cut will be made across the most tapered and narrowest portion of the branch
• Use the branch bark ridge as a guide, never cutting into it

• Co-dominant leaders represent the most detrimental architectural defect on a tree and should be addressed.
• Branches rubbing at the outer canopy don’t necessarily require pruning
• Grafted trees tend to produce more root suckers than trees produced on their own roots
• Certain trees such as Flowering Crabapple (root suckers) and Lindens/Basswood (basal suckers) have a propensity to produce suckers
• Watersprouts can be left on the tree if they fill a void and don’t girdle other branches
• Thinning and spacing may not be needed
• Pruning is best done while the tree is still dormant in late winter; late-season should be avoided

Co-dominant leader failure; note the point of detachment where moisture penetrated the branch union, weakening the attachment